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Eye of the Beholder The late 18th/early 19th century, in both England and America, marked the height of the vogue for portrait miniatures used as jewelry. The images were often pinned over the wearer’s heart, occasionally turned inward as a mark of intimacy. Fine examples from the late 18th/early 19th century are hard to find, but perhaps none is quite as scarce as the illusive “lover’s eye” or eye miniature. Although there is much controversy over the origin of this form of jewelry, many believe it began with a portrait of The Prince of Wales given to Mrs. Fitzhubert in 1785. From there, interest in this jewelry form was ignited among the courts of Europe and the wealthy for the next 30 years or so. The intent was to focus on the eye and perhaps a wisp of hair, and reveal only a portion of the face to hide the true identity of the giver. The miniatures were given as tokens of friendship and affection, and also presented as mementos to commemorate the death of a loved one. It is said that Queen Victoria commissioned several as gifts, even though they were considered old-fashioned at the time. According to the PBS Antiques Roadshow website, all lover's eye portraits are valuable and it is thought that less than1,000 examples were produced. In searching for recent auction sales, I found an oval lover's eye surrounded by paste stones with a lock of hair in a glazed compartment on the reverse and a later brooch pin setting that sold for $7,792 at Sotheby's in 2008 (Sale LO8053, Lot 328). This Silvermine Antiques example features a sensitively painted amber-brown eye gazing softly over the years, framed by a double row of glossy chestnut curls. The remarkable miniature painting is surrounded by 24 sparkling foil-backed paste stones and set in 15-carat rose gold with an engraved border, pin fastener, and a small ring for suspending the brooch from a chain. Ahhh...it's no secret that the gaze of a secret lover or friend is a treasure! See "Needlework/Costume" Page for Pricing information. SOLD Research Resources: Cherished Possessions, A New England Legacy, SPNEA; PBS Antiques Roadshow, The Jane Austin Centre, Sotheby's | ||
Silvermine Antiques - New Canaan, CT | ||
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