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Flight of Fancy

This fanciful mat is embellished in quite an unusual manner. It may seem strange to us today, but in the 19th century, it was the height of fashion. The sheer organza fabric glistens not only with gold-wrapped threads and jewel-toned silk floss, but another unique material…beetle-wing cases. That’s right…bug wing covers!

The iridescent wing cases, which are shed as part of the beetle’s life cycle, were cut into leaf shapes and sewn onto fabric that was then imported from India to the European– and less often American– markets. The fabric was used to add a touch of the “exotic” to gowns, scarves and table mats in the mid-to-late 19th century. While the technique originated in India, other countries adopted the method. The fabric and finished pieces were originally quite expensive, and even today they command high prices, due to their rarity. There are examples in museums around the world, including the V & A, the National Museum in Delhi, India, and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.

The importance of these treasured fabrics endures. Just this year, in March 2011, A Victorian dress made from 1,000 beetle-wing cases was restored at a price of $80,000. The emerald and sea green gown was worn by the famous actress of the era, Ellen Terry, when she played Lady Macbeth at London's Lyceum Theatre in 1888. It was one of the most iconic and celebrated theatre costumes of the time, immortalized by a John Singer Sargent portrait. It's significance endures today as The National Trust states "The Beetle Wing" dress is one of the most important items on their list of property.

Is a beetle wing rarity your flight of fancy? If so, there’s one available right here at Silvermine Antiques.

See "Needlework/Costume" page for pricing information. SOLD

Research Resources: V & A, dailymail.co.uk

Silvermine Antiques - New Canaan, CT

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